The Daily Boost #547

Get stoked

Photo by Lisha Riabinina on Unsplash

I’ve never tried to surf, but I know the feeling of being “stoked.” How about you?

Reflect on these words by Aaron James:

Consider a wave rising from the ocean’s depth, which is about to crest and peel along a reef or beach. What does it take to be carried along by that wave’s natural propulsive force, let alone surf it well, doing turns with speed, power and flow?

Speaking as a surfer myself, I can say that the beginning of wisdom here is to firmly accept one’s limited power over the ocean and its waves. Mother Ocean does as she does, whether I like it or not. And yet I’m not entirely powerless, when I can trust the world enough to act and skilfully react, in a sort of adaptive attunement.

To stay attuned, I’ll pay very close attention to the changing moments of the wave. I’ll try to make the right bodily adjustments as each new moment of the wave presents itself, a shift in weight, a low crouch, a decisive break in one direction and then another. And I’ll just keep doing the next right thing, without thinking too much about it.

Though I’m doing a lot here, the unfolding dynamic can feel like it’s happening to me, almost without effort. As the different moments of the wave unfold, I’ll get a sense of easy efficacy, of everything coming together, as I’m propelled along. This sense often builds into a joyous tension—which even grown men and women release in a bellowing hoot or howl, as though drinking from the Fountain of Youth.

The elated state of “stoke,” as surfers call it, is really a sort of celebration of what’s come to pass. It’s a celebration of having been caught up in fortunate coalescence of skill and circumstance, of bodily skill attuned to ocean circumstances beyond all control.

Surfing is such a great metaphor for the mindful life!

(My thanks to Aaron James, via Psyche. You can read the rest of the essay at this link.)

The Gentle Nudge

Join other Rafters this week for . . .

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